Scenery techniques for static grass and fencing used on the corner module


The above photo is the corner module before applying the static grass, ballast, and fencing. The grass work is basic Woodland Scenics fine turf ground foam, which many people would say gives a reasonable finish. But when you compare it to the following photos the difference that static grass over the top makes is more than considerable.



Geoff Winkler has the following photos at Flickr of the Timboon branch that exemplify the mixture of short green grass and longer dried off grass of the region.


 I grew up in the little town of Darlington, about 17 miles north of the junction at the beginning of the branch and so have the feel of the countryside impressed firmly into my memories.

The static grass is of various types.

 On right hand side of the following picture, and behind the track is a small patch of Modeller’s Warehouse SH004-23 static grass 4.5mm autumn grass 10g sample pack.

Shrunk T-TRAK singel track Corner module static grass and fencing 015

At the very front of this picture, again on the right hand side, is a patch of “Spring Mix” by a British supplier known as “War-World Scenics” on E-BAY.

The rest of the long dry grass is 3mm Max Height Dead Grass from “Aussie Scenics” on E-BAY.

In most patches I mixed it with some “Polak” brand “FlockDekor”1mm long Spring Green (8101) to match the real world situation of shorter green grass growing up amongst longer dead grass.

The fence posts are Evergreen Styrene 1/16″ rod (stock number 222) that have had files and emery boards run along them several times to roughen them up more than a bit. The rod was then painted with streaks of mainly Tamiya XF-55 Deck Tan and some XF-78 Wooden Deck Tan. When it was dry it was cut into 15mm lengths for the posts. 9mm of the post needs to stand clear of the soil. To mark out the wire positions I used a fine pointed black felt tip pen. Measuring from the top I made marks at 1mm, 3mm, 3.5mm, 6mm and 7.5mm. This gives wire spacing of a scale 6 inches below the post top, then 12 inches, and then consecutively 9 inches for a total of five wires. The actual ‘wire’ is “E-Z-Line”, sold as Oingo-Boingo at Modeller’s Warehouse:

This not to be confused with a great Australian product at:

This is ‘super glued’ in place as per the video by M.C. Fujiwara at:

The posts then have a paint touch up to cover the black marks and hopefully create the illusion that the wire is actually passing through the post.

Still to do is the `droppers’, thinner wood posts attached only to the wires to keep the wire spacing and stop livestock squeezing though them.

 The ballast is Woodland Scenics Fine Grey with some `Coffee’ coloured tile grout mixed in to give it the dirty and low maintenance look. The track was painted with some `out of the paint box’ Humbrol rust brown enamel paint. The main point here is to totally cover the nickel silver except for the very top In the real world only the  top of the rail is shiny. I have seen many layouts with good scenery and structures severely `devalued’ in the `atmosphere’ department simply by having unpainted rails.

I will add some more updates in the next few days.



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4 responses to “Scenery techniques for static grass and fencing used on the corner module

  1. Well done, I’m happy too see my pictures being put to good use!.

  2. THX for sharing these details about modelling, landscaping and grass. Ballasting looks good, too!

  3. I just like the valuable info you supply on your
    articles. I will bookmark your weblog and check again right here frequently.

    I am reasonably certain I’ll be told many new stuff proper here! Best of luck for the next!

    • ttrakandrew

      Thank-you for expressing your appreciation. I write the blog with the purpose of helping others, it is good to know that I am achieving this aim.

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